News

Featuring the Work of Year One Fashion Design Student Jasmine Aldridge

Third of three mini insights into our Year One Fashion Design students’ inaugural project Original Copy.

Capitalising on her 0 waste attitude to design Jasmine’s collection from reclaimed shirts ensures collars, plackets, cuffs and pockets all have an extra place in her deconstructed designs.

Taking inspiration from her parents first-hand experience of the 1980s Jasmine indulged in the WSA library’s vast collection of 80s i-D magazines and documentaries to develop a collection that clashes Punk with the Memphis design movement in the style of her designer of choice Ahluwalia.

The pieces feature alternative seams, buckles and fastenings with clashing colours, haphazard arrangements and strong shapes.

Featuring the Work of Year One Fashion Design Student Alice Daggett

Second of three mini insights into our Year One Fashion Design students’ inaugural project Original Copy.

After putting a call out over social media for donations of unwanted shirts Alice honed in on supersizing the identities and details of her chosen designer Bianca Saunders.

Alice identified Saunders’ sheer figure-hugging T-shirts, side-split trousers, clingy silk shirts and ruched, ruffled cropped tops as a means to explore gender identity. Saunders’ West Indian heritage offered the opportunity to explore the voice of the Black Power movement culminating in a collection which overall champions freedom of expression.

An unusual space in which the Black Panther Movement meets the reinventing styles of Prince and David Bowie and Blitz club personalities like Leigh Bowery and Michael Clark. The right to a voice and freedom of expression opens the door to ever-mutating identities. 

Featuring the Work of Year One Fashion Design Student Eleanor Keers

First of three mini insights into our Year One Fashion Design students’ inaugural project Original Copy.

Tasked the job of designing a range of tops from reclaimed shirts for a designer of her choice Eleanor threw an array of mashed up ideas into a melting pot and out popped an equally mashed up range of fabulous styles. 

Through the process we saw Ahluwalia’s AW2021 collection meet abstract buildings and globular sofas; Pablo Picasso’s Cubist pieces; vintage Nigerian album covers; Akwete cloth; the 1993 film Cool Runnings; Barbara Brown’s prints and Anrealage’s 3D forms.

Free hand stitch and natural dyes made from items out the cupboard and fridge helped to transform the reclaimed shirts into Eleanor’s own Original Copy.

Fashion Design Student Shortlisted for Global Graduate Award

We are excited to share Lily Prescott’s thoroughly deserving collection ‘Neon Playground’ which has been shortlisted for the i-D and ARTS THREAD Global Design Graduate Show 2020 in collaboration with Gucci.

Please read on, and if you share in our sentiment that this collection deserves greater recognition please click on the link below and vote before 14th September.

4482 students uploaded their end of year projects for the biggest ever global online event solely focused on graduating creative students. A large independent judging panel consisting of notable fashion names such as Alastair McKimm, Anya Hindmarch, Diane Pernet and labels such as Browns, Levi’s, Tommy Hilfiger and Marimekko whittled the huge fashion contingent down to 180 shortlisted projects, one of which was WSA BA Fashion Design student Lily Prescott’s ‘Neon Playground’

Lily Prescott – Neon Playground

Encompassing 20th century baseball & American football uniforms, Japanese Kinbaku binding and traditional craft techniques Lily’s collection moulds the old concepts of masculinity within vintage inspiration into something neutral and fluid. Tim Walkers ‘Wonderful Things’ exhibition and Ukiyo-e block printing inspired her bright and contrasting colour palette and graphic prints. The collection melds together the traditional and fetishized, creating garments with a new perspective on how masculinity is represented within fashion, by allowing something artistically lewd to reside within traditionally male silhouettes. 

Link to vote: https://www.artsthread.com/events/gdgs2020/fashion-textile-accessories/#/project/neon-playground-ss20-final-collection

Remote Fashion at MoMA, New York

By Dr Lyanne Holcombe lecturer in critical studies in fashion and textiles.

For today’s news feature we look into the world of online fashion context and how this can inspire us to think beyond observations. What I find inspiring when I search the great array of national and international museums is the choice and depth of what we can discover about clothing history, style and context.

I love the layout of the pages and whilst looking up the Items: Is Fashion Modern exhibition (which ran from Oct 2017 to Jan 2018) I was astounded by the amount of information on offer. New York is a renowned fashion world city and whilst we sit in our homes we can explore what’s happening as a kind of urban platform for the past, present and future! With some real pioneering stuff on offer I began by searching past exhibitions and thinking about how this could fuel new ideas for my research. What got me interested in this site were the current fashion aspect and how cutting edge this museum seems to be for the fashion industry and contextual history. I usually go straight for the archive and find myself amazed by the images on display, although it is always good to explore various exhibitions to see what can be found.

I obtain a lot from reading the introduction, which clarifies what’s interesting and useful. Fashion Curator’s make design fascinating, therefore it useful to read the book that accompanies any exhibition. In particular Paola Antonelli has a wide realm of experience and describes the intention of the show:

Items will invite some designers, engineers, and manufacturers to respond to some of these indispensable items with pioneering materials, approaches, and techniques—extending this conversation into the near and distant futures, and connecting the history of these garments with their present recombination and use. Driven first and foremost by objects, not designers, the exhibition considers the many relationships between fashion and functionality, culture, aesthetics, politics, labor, identity, economy, and technology.

If you are looking for ideas, this is a great exhibition to reflect back on. The website offers a list of designers and the catalogue provides ‘an A to Z of the 111 garments and accessories that have influenced the world in the past 100 years, from icons of fashion to humble masterpieces of design.’

Check out the website and What’s On to see visuals, images and interviews with people who talk about wearing Martin Margiela Tabi Boots or the photographer Godlis on his late 1950’s anti-fashion Biker Jacket.

WSA BA Fashion & Textiles Career Day

We are very pleased to announce a bespoke Careers Day on 16th July for our Graduating BA Fashion & Textile Design .

The day will consist of a wonderful range of speakers from our WSA alumni who run their own labels to a specialist career advisor with a wealth of information for the first rung on the ladder.

Talks for the day….

WSA Alumni – MA, Post MA and Own Label

In conversation with two WSA alumni both of whom founded their own individual design studios in Shanghai.

Linjing Feng completed her MA Womenswear at London College of Fashion before co founding the high-end womenswear label Aetna Project in 2019. Curtis Wu recently completed his MA in Menswear at Westminster University and is in the process of presenting his new line ‘Deplumer’.

WSA Alumni – Working in Fashion and Textiles

In conversation with WSA Alumni working across the Fashion & Textiles industry with a focus on sharing their experience of looking for and finding their first job.

Textile Design alumni Hannah Auerbach George – Co-founder of NORN.DESIGN an experimental design consultancy working at the intersection of the physical and digital. Application, functionality and personality are explored through progressive thinking, practical making and digital innovation.

Fashion Design alumni Abigail Skrentny – studio assistant at By WALID men and women label using antique textiles that are entirely sustainable. Couture, one-of-a-kind pieces extend beyond fashion into the home.

Tove Johansson

Tove will discuss the importance of a stylish and clearly communicated portfolio when approaching different design employers and applying for jobs.

Stephanie Finnan

Stephanie will give invaluable careers advice when it comes to both looking for and applying to positions across the large array of avenues within Fashion and Textiles.

Introducing the Class of 2020

I’m pleased to introduce the WSA BA Fashion Design Class of 2020! They have shown tremendous resilience in light of the change in circumstances in the last four months of their study, and the running up to completing their Graduate Collections – the culmination of three years of study.

I am incredibly impressed by the innovation shown, making the collections take shape, despite limited resources, and the ability to create individual presentations and portfolios, using their surroundings as platform. As the saying goes ‘necessity is the mother of invention’.

The graduating cohort of 2020 is a wonderful mix of Fashion Design students and personalities – with menswear, womenswear and ‘a scene beyond’ collections. Bold, beautiful, creative, minimal, colourful, monochromatic, poetic, textured, daring, inventive, all part of the showcase to follow. I hope you will enjoy it!

Cecilia Langemar
Programme Leader BA Fashion Design

For enquires contact:

Ceceilia Langemar
Programme Leader BA Fashion Design C.Langemar@soton.ac.uk

@wsa.ba.fashion www.wsabafashion.com

www.southampton.ac.uk/wsa

Design: Studio 3015

Typeface:
Apfel Grotesk Regular & Brukt by Collletttivo.

Apfel Grotezk Brukt, was designed to reduce the amount of used ink in printing through cut-outs of different size and shape.

Celebrating the Fashion Design Class of 2020

Fashion has gone digital! Due to social distancing restrictions to stop the spread of Covid 19 we have seen international fashion weeks, trade shows, fairs and forums go ‘online’ to present designers, product and ideas to inspire and inform the industry. We are excited to see that this same approach has been applied to graduating Fashion Design students.

Here are just a few of the opportunities for WSA Fashion Design students…

On 8thJuly the British Fashion Council will present a Graduate Preview event presenting Fashion Design student work to the Fashion industry. There are some exciting events from industry leaders happening through the day for graduating students to tune into also.

From 9thJuly we will launch our full online degree show on Artsthread to celebrate the achievements of our graduating BA Students at Winchester School of Art to an international audience for the first time.

i-D and ARTSTHREAD have launched a global graduate showcase initiative for the class of 2020 in any art and design related discipline. The first presentation of shortlisted graduates will take place from 15thAugust. Winners and runners-up will be announced and featured on the ARTSTHREAD platform and well as featured on worldwide i-D channels from late September/October

In addition to this i-D and ARTSTHREAD are presenting a wide range of graduate support led activities, webinars, masterclasses and releasing practical information on how to experiment, curate and upload your creative journey, allowing all students to express their diversity and raw creative process.

In embracing these new opportunities and ways of thinking we can see a tide change for presenting all Fashion Graduates in the future to come.

Competitions and Fashion Projects

The students may have handed in their assessment work but that doesn’t mean that designing and ‘fashioning’ has stopped for the WSA Fashion Design family.

We have just received the greatest number of entries from our students for the annual British Fashion Council Fashion Design competition linked with Burberry. And, considering the current climate, we are very please to say that the quality has been very high. We continue to be so profoundly proud of our students and how they having taken on the changing environment with the perseverance necessary for a future in the Fashion industry.

We have loved being able to support them through the new online classroom we have in place through Microsoft Teams and can’t wait to see more of their competition and summer fashion work through our Teams’ ‘chats’ and posted on the students’ personal fashion Instagram accounts.

Well done everyone!

‘Fashioned Lives’ by Dr. Lyanne Holcombe, Lecturer in Critical Studies for Fashion Design

Lyanne’s research reflects historical and contemporary fashion design, including a focus on style and photography, and the processes of craft in the context of printed textiles production and oral history in relation to the study of objects and interiors. Part of this involves the teaching and study of fashioned lives, in the past and at present. Printed media and photography inspire me, and how this reflects modern identities in the city, a kind of street style and formation of the feminine over the years and weaved into our cultural fabric in time and space.

Lyanne’s recent publication entitled Space, Efficiency and Service: Luxury and Femininity in the Establishments of J. Lyons & Co (1895-1935) in the academic journal Luxury: History, Culture and Consumption (Taylor & Francis, 2020) explores how young women expressed themselves in the early twentieth century, as fashionable employment emerged in the West End of London. The role of the modern waitress gave a sense of excitement and wonder for those who worked as Nippies in the famous Lyons Corner Houses and Hotels. Such glamourizing of these everyday roles was pronounced in the Hollywood movies of the time. As modernity represented the jazz age and the influence of a leisure culture, to be employed by J. Lyons & Co meant that women gained independence and the affordability of a stylish lifestyle, that was previously unobtainable to the working class girl. 

The modern young women whom Lyons employed personified an image of space, efficiency and service. Girls who were neatly dressed in an updated version of servant clothing which by the late 1920’s was further glamourized by the addition of a stylized cap and collar. Whilst the space of London urbanized, the number of women employed increased. Such an impact created various new industries that women sought to enjoy.

“By exploring gender in relation to this, I was able to unravel and to explore how styling was a huge part of the image of luxury, in relation to publicity, and how femininity became the central focus for this. As an ongoing project that has spanned many years of PhD research, I enjoyed the rewards of seeing my work on glossy paper and supported by the photographs of the women I’d spent much time exploring.” Dr Lyanne Holcombe